Dhabla is a Rajasthani-style Kutch weaving that has been around for centuries. The Vankar people arrived in the Kutch region from Rajasthan. They were also known as the Meghwals and they often went to Kutch to see their relatives there. The Rabaris, a different ethnic group, raised sheep and embroidered exclusively, but they lacked weaving expertise. Due to increased commerce, the Vankars relocated to Kutch and established themselves there. The Vankar people of Rajasthan and Kutch were the first to weave the dhabla weave, which originated in the region's hot climate. In the quest of the saint Shri Ram Dev Pirji, the Meghwals made their way to Kutch. Traders from these groups would often visit Kutch. Kutch's first settlers were the Rabari and Ahir populations, who raised sheep. Although the Ahir and Rabari cultures also manufactured their own Dhabla, they lacked the weaving ability.
Dhabla, the graceful weaving of the deserts, has its origins in the Kutch area of India. Natural colours were used to produce the traditional Dhabla, 100 inches in length. The Rabari women would meticulously weave a Dhabla- a conventional blanket worn by the males of the hamlet- until it was finished. The Dhabla was historically constructed of single and two-ply wool and was rather heavy. Due to its delicate patterning, raindrops could not penetrate the cloth. Males also wore the Dhabla to keep them comfortable throughout the day.
Traditional Dhabla art has developed throughout time as a result of cultural influences. The Dhabla cloth is produced by the Vankar people in the Indian state of Gujarat. On the other hand, the Ahir population does not weave and primarily relies on agriculture and livestock. Despite their modest population, the Meghwals are well-known for their bhojsari embroidery design. The Meghwal people are responsible for creating kashida pattu and Baladi checks.
The Dhabla weave is a traditional Indian handicraft that originates in the Indian state of Kutch.
The Dhabla weave is made entirely with wool, which is an absolute need. It was easier to work with wool than a lighter fabric like cotton in Rajasthan and Kutch during the winter months because wool was easily available. Using goat and sheep wool, the Dhabla was created, and the weaving process was completed with the help of a pit shuttle loom and a basic up and down method. Traditionally to the Rabaris, they would collect wool from the local sheep twice a year: first before the rainy season and again near the conclusion of the winter season. Previously, the amount of wool produced was just adequate to meet the needs of the home market. However, as the skill grew in popularity, the demand for wool rose, and the weavers finally realised that they needed to get yarn from other sources. However, there were no unique qualities in the local wool.
The Dhabla is a traditional handloom cloth from Gujarat, India, produced in Kutch. It is woven in two parts, each measuring around 26 inches across, created by skilled craftspeople. The cloth is stitched with great care by the women of the village, who use only the finest threads. Dhabla was typically fashioned from single and two-ply yarn and was quite heavy. Because the weave is so tight, raindrops could not penetrate the fabric's internal structure. The dhabla was used by both men and women to keep warm and comfortable in cold weather.
To begin with, the Dhabla was created from shawls and was intended for the Rabari people in north-western Gujarat. As the demand for the Dhabla expanded, the Rabari started producing sarees and stoles for the international market due to their success. In addition to goat and sheep wool, the peasants employed a variety of other fibres in their weaving.
There are presently four basic types of yarns that the weavers use:
Black, white, and brownish-brown wool were the most common neutral hues utilised in the industry's early days. Eventually, they added colour to their sheep's wool when people honed their dying skills. Spin, Dye, warp, pattern, and weaving are all part of the process of making a Bhujodi item. To carry out any of these procedures, you'll need specialised devices that are both fundamental and have been around for ages. Organic dyes like blues, lac, and other natural materials have had a renaissance in textile dying in recent years due to a rise in interest in natural colours.
The traditional, time-consuming, and expensive method of making a Rabari shawl is as follows:
The current situation is one of responding to local market needs. It has become more common for the Vankars of Kutch to create textiles for the urban market in more significant numbers than ever before. This strategy is used throughout the weaving process because of its adaptability. There is no need for ordering forms or written instructions for weavers who receive orders verbally. The only metal things in the room are a bucket, scissors, and a few pegs in a woodworking loom. Local water and sunlight and the expertise of the weavers' hands allow them to pursue their goals and provide for their families. To get the most up-to-date picture of Dhabla's urbanisation, Fashinza, a B2B clothing manufacturing platform, is your best option.